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Building · in The Bund

HSBC Building

上海浦东发展银行大楼Shànghǎi Pǔdōng Fāzhǎn Yínháng Dàlóu

Palmer & Turner's 1923 head office for HSBC, the widest building on the Bund, with a mosaic dome hidden under paint from 1956 to 1997; now SPD Bank.

Built
1921–1923
Architect
Palmer & Turner
Style
neoclassical
Heritage listing
Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level (全国重点文物保护单位), as part of the Bund Buildings group (上海外滩建筑群) · national · 4th batch · 1996Shanghai Outstanding Historical Building (上海市优秀历史建筑), no. 1A003 · municipal · 1st batch · 1989
Status
Open to visitors
Then in
British Settlement1845–1863International Settlement1863–1943Central District from 1899
The HSBC Building with its dome, seen across the open square on the Bund.
Photo: ScareCriterion12 · CC BY-SA 4.0
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What you're looking at

  • The dome over the centre of the river facade, above a row of six Ionic columns that run from the second to the fourth storey.
  • The two bronze lions flanking the Bund entrance: these are replicas made around 1997; the 1923 originals, Stephen (roaring) and Stitt (seated), are in the Shanghai History Museum.
  • Inside the Bund entrance, the octagonal hall: look up at the mosaic dome with eight city panels and the zodiac, painted over in 1956 and uncovered in 1997.
  • The frontage runs the full width of Bund numbers 10 to 12, the largest site on the Bund.
  • The side gate at 36 Fuzhou Road, where booked lunchtime visits enter.
02

The story

This is the largest building on the Bund: the Shanghai head office that the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (汇丰银行, Huìfēng Yínháng) opened in 1923, now the head office of Shanghai Pudong Development Bank (上海浦东发展银行, Shànghǎi Pǔdōng Fāzhǎn Yínháng). Its dome, its six Ionic columns and its two bronze lions are the images most people carry away from the Bund.

HSBC had been in Shanghai since 3 April 1865, when it opened for business in premises on the waterfront. By 1919 the bank commissioned a new building. Alexander Stephen, the Shanghai manager, gave the architects Palmer & Turner (公和洋行, Gōnghé Yángháng) a short brief: spare no expense, and dominate the Bund.

Work began in 1921 and finished in June 1923. The building was officially opened on 23 June 1923. It took three street numbers, 10 to 12, on a site of 9,338 square metres, and no other building on the Bund has a wider frontage. Behind the granite there is a steel frame. The main block is five storeys, with a partial seventh storey at the centre under the dome.

The Bund entrance leads into an octagonal hall. Above it is a mosaic dome, designed in 1923 by a British artist and laid by Italian craftsmen in the Venetian technique. Eight panels show cities where the bank had offices, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Tokyo, London, New York, Bangkok, Paris and Calcutta, each with a guardian figure. The ceiling above carries the sun god, the moon goddess, a harvest goddess and the twelve signs of the zodiac. In 1956 the mosaics were painted over. They stayed hidden until repair work in November 1997 brought them back to light. The 1998 restoration repaired about 200 square metres of mosaic.

The lions have their own story. In 1921 Stephen decided that a pair of lions should guard the entrance. The sculptor Henry Poole modelled them, they were cast in England, and they arrived for the 1923 opening. The roaring one was named Stephen, after Alexander Stephen; the calm, seated one was named Stitt, after the Shanghai manager Gordon Stitt. People rubbed their paws for luck. In 1935 the bank had a larger pair, modelled on these, cast in Shanghai for its new Hong Kong head office. The lions on the steps now are replicas made around 1997. The 1923 originals are held by the Shanghai History Museum.

During the Pacific War the building was in Japanese hands, and HSBC reopened its Shanghai office in 1946. In 1955 the bank gave up the building and moved to smaller premises. The building became the seat of the Shanghai municipal government and was known as the Municipal Government Building. The government left in 1995. On 12 December 1997 Shanghai Pudong Development Bank acquired the building, restored it, and moved its head office in on 23 June 1998.

The building is listed as no. 1A003 in the first batch of Shanghai Outstanding Historical Buildings, and it is part of the Bund Buildings group protected at the national level since 1996.

The ground floor is a working bank branch. The exterior can be seen at any time. Since April 2025 the bank has shown the octagonal hall and the banking hall free of charge on short booked lunchtime visits, reported as two sessions a day at 11:30 and 12:00, entered from the side gate at 36 Fuzhou Road. These arrangements come from news reports rather than from the bank’s own website, so check before planning around them.

From the archive

The HSBC Building with its dome, seen along the Bund with carts and cars in the street, in a plate from the 1927 book Shanghai of Today.
Archive image

From Shanghai of Today, 1927.

Photo: unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
03

How to visit

Status
Open to visitors
Opening times and prices not yet confirmed; check before you go.
Nearest metro
Metro directions will be added after a site visit.Plan a metro journey here →

Chinese address — show this to a taxi driver

上海市黄浦区中山东一路12号

12 Zhongshan East 1st Road, Huangpu District

Amap (高德地图) works best in mainland China; Apple Maps on iPhone. Both open in the app when it is installed.

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Nearby

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Within a 10-minute walk

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On these walks

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People

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Stories

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Sources

  1. 1.HSBC History collection page on the Shanghai building (A Shanghai landmark - HSBC History), HSBC Holdings (HSBC History) — https://history.hsbc.com/collection/a-shanghai-landmarkwebsite
  2. 2.HSBC History timeline (HSBC History Timeline - Growth and challenges (1865 entry on era-1 page; 1923 and 1946 entries on era-2 page)), HSBC Holdings (HSBC History) — https://history.hsbc.com/history/timeline/era-1 (1865 entry); https://history.hsbc.com/history/timeline/era-2 (1923 entry); https://history.hsbc.com/history/timeline/era-2 (1946 entry)website
  3. 3.Readable Architecture: the coloured dome and bronze lions of a century-old Bund building (建筑可阅读 | 彩色穹顶、铜狮子,外滩这幢宏伟壮丽的百年大楼,你去过吗?), 澎湃新闻·湃客 — https://www.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_16367281article
  4. 4.Shanghai memories: the Bund historic and cultural area (申城记忆 | 经典上海——外滩历史文化风貌区), 澎湃新闻·湃客 — https://www.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_5700079article
  5. 5.Chinese Wikipedia (article given in each fact's locator) (中文维基百科), Wikimedia Foundation — https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/滙豐銀行大樓_(上海)wikipedia
  6. 6.English Wikipedia (article given in each fact's locator) (English Wikipedia), Wikimedia Foundation — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_Building,_the_Bund; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_Building,_the_Bund#Dome_and_mosaics; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_lions; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_Building,_the_Bund#History; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_outstanding_historic_buildings_of_Shanghai (1st batch, 沪府办〔1989〕62号)wikipedia
  7. 7.Bund No. 12 now free to visit: booking guide (包出片的!上海外滩C位楼王免费开放!预约攻略), 腾讯新闻 — https://news.qq.com/rain/a/20250629A05DE200article
  8. 8.Bank branches with history and technology (历史底蕴、硬核科技,这些银行网点有意思), 上海市国有资产监督管理委员会(国企动态) — https://www.gzw.sh.gov.cn/shgzw_zxzx_gqdt/20240204/a4d530c5a4cf468a9b3eca3f84988d2d.htmlwebsite
  9. 9.Shanghai Pudong Development Bank: carrying on the legacy at the centre of the Bund (浦发银行:在外滩C位传承荣耀), 澎湃新闻·金改实验室 — https://m.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_4049347article
  10. 10.After Bund No. 12 opened free to the public: 'opening up' the Bund needs careful management (外滩12号免费开放之后:“打开”外滩,需要精细管理), 澎湃新闻研究所 — https://www.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_31165887article
  11. 11.HSBC History online exhibition (Roaring to Life - HSBC History Exhibition), HSBC Holdings (HSBC History) — https://history.hsbc.com/exhibitions/roaring-to-lifewebsite
  12. 12.Bank guardian lions: HSBC's bronze lions (银行守门狮|汇丰铜狮曾中弹?险被日军熔铸造武器?中银石狮有两款?), 当代中国 (ourchinastory.com) — https://www.ourchinastory.com/cn/14841article
  13. 13.Shanghai Outstanding Historical Buildings list (batches 1–5) (上海市优秀历史建筑名录(第一至第五批)), 上海市人民政府 / 上海市房屋管理局 — https://fgj.sh.gov.cn/yxlsjz/20200331/fe7b4d6f35774b708a2c5122849065bd.html, row 1A003official-list
  14. 14.State Council list of the 4th batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level (1996), incl. 上海外滩建筑群 (国务院关于公布第四批全国重点文物保护单位的通知(1996)), 国务院, 1996 — https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/国务院关于公布第四批全国重点文物保护单位的通知, entry 220official-list

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